The Perfect Gray Covering Technique

Throughout our lives, our hair often speaks volumes about our experiences, emotions, and transitions. One of the most significant changes many people face is the appearance of gray hair. While some see their gray locks as a symbol of pride, others would rather cover them up to regain their youthful vibrancy.

Covering gray hair can be a wonderful process of self-expression and transformation, as a result of which our guests can express their individuality even more advantageously, or with a well-chosen shade we can make their appearance look a few years younger. Let's teach our guests to accept the change in age, on the one hand, but not to passively accept it, because thanks to modern hair dyes, hairdressers have the solution so that they can continue to proudly wear their crown of hair, their self-confidence and radiance can shine in their old light.

In this material, we have prepared a brief overview of the complex and challenging aspects of covering gray hair, which require a lot of professional knowledge for a hairdresser - without claiming to be complete -, encouraging our hairdressers to consult us in case of any uncertainty or in order to learn new professional hairdressing tricks. Register for our courses, our workshop calendar contains the closest training locations and current dates!

Covering Gray Hair: The Basics

What is gray hair?

Gray hair occurs when hair follicles stop producing melanin, the pigment responsible for hair color. This process can begin in our 30s or even earlier, depending on genetic predisposition, stress, and lifestyle factors. For those looking to cover gray hair, understanding the percentage of gray hair can be important to help determine the right color choice.

The appearance of gray hair is a natural process that affects many people and can be a great challenge for hairdressers. Covering gray hair requires not only technical knowledge, but also aesthetic sense and customer relations skills.

Below, we will detail the perfect techniques for covering gray hair, including choosing the right materials, the steps of the coloring process, and how to avoid the most common mistakes.

I. Characteristics of Gray Hair

Understanding Gray Hair Color and Texture

Gray hair is pigment-deficient due to decreased melanin production, and this pigment deficiency gradually occurs with age.

Understanding the color and texture of gray hair is key to successful coverage. Gray hair is pigment-depleted to varying degrees, and the degree of graying is expressed in %:

• 0-20%: No special attention to graying is necessary.
• 20-50%: Mix 2/3 fashion color with 1/3 natural (or gold) paint: .0 for desired cool shade, .3 for warm tone
• 50-75%: A mixture of half natural (or gold) and half fashion color is required.

·        75-95%: Mix 2/3 natural or gold shade, 1/3 fashion color and 1 g booster/corrector/mixton. (As a guide: squeeze out about 1 cm of material from the tube)

·        95-100%: Mix 2/3 natural or gold, 1/3 fashion color and 3 g booster/corrector/mixton. (as a guide: squeeze out about 3 cm of material from the tube)

 

Dye adhesion can be difficult due to gray hair, which is usually thinner, more brittle and fragile. The condition and texture of the hair should be taken into account, as gray hair is often coarser, which affects dye adhesion and the shine of the final result.

II. Selecting the Right Materials

Paint Selection

• Permanent vs. Semi-permanent: Permanent dyes penetrate deeper into the hair shaft and are ideal for full coverage of hair over 30% gray. Semi-permanent dyes are gentler, but can only be used up to 30% gray.
• Colors: When dyeing gray hair, it is recommended to use your own base hair color or lighter shades, as these give a softer effect and frame the face more youthfully.

Color Depth: Help your client find the shade that most closely matches their natural hair color. This creates a smoother transition and reduces contrast between the hair color and the hair color. and colored/dyed hair.

Color Depth: Undertones: Help highlight your guest's skin tone undertones: For warm-toned skin, golden or honey shades are preferable, while for cool-toned skin, ashy or platinum colors are preferable.

Accessories

• Hair care products: Shampoos and conditioners used before and after dyeing are key to hydrating your hair. We also recommend no-yellow toning hair care products for use at home on dyed hair or in the case of ashy tones.
• Professional tools: make sure you have a paint scale to mix the proportions precisely!

III. The Painting Process

Preparation

1. Hair diagnosis:  The first step is to thoroughly check the initial condition of the hair. It is necessary to determine whether prior treatments are needed, such as moisturizing or nourishing wraps, but perhaps most importantly: is pre-pigmentation necessary?

Pre-pigmentation

Pre-pigmentation is necessary for patchy graying hair, while it is not necessary for diffuse graying. We work with a dye one shade lighter than the desired color depth, without a developer.

Color chart: The color chart should be placed in front of the guest so that they can see the possible end result and consider how well the desired color depth and shade harmonize with their skin. and the color of his eyes, his personality type.

Painting Steps:

1.      Dye preparation: It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions when mixing the dye. Most manufacturers recommend mixing the dye with the developer in a 1:1 ratio for gray hair coverage.

 

Tip 1: If your gray hair is thick and very "glassy", use .00 intense natural shade instead of .0!

Tip 2:

.0 = 100% gray coverage dye, suitable for both warm and cool tones

.3 = 100% gray hair coverage dye, can only be used for warm shades!

 

Tip 3:

We also apply the 5-step “rule of thumb” for hair coloring here:

I/ Determining the depth of the base hair color

II/ Determination of graying percentage

III/ the desired  color depth target definition

IV/ the desired  defining a hue target

V/ choosing the perfect concentration (%) of developer

 

Tip 4: Dyeing gray hair blonde is even more complex than outlined in this tutorial, so be sure to  We recommend participating in our courses! 

 

 

2.      Priming: We start applying the paint at the root, as this area absorbs the pigment faster. It is important that the dye does not get on the scalp during the priming process.

3.      Creating transitions : Gradually work the dye in, working from the roots down, making sure that the transitions are smooth and natural. Work precisely, don't skimp on the material, and always use the right amount to thoroughly saturate each strand of hair.

4.      Timing : Timing is key; follow the manufacturer's instructions, but also pay attention to the condition of the client's hair, as different hair types may react differently to dyes.

 

Rinsing and Aftercare

1. Rinsing : After removing the paint, use lukewarm water.
2. Care: It is recommended to use a deep moisturizing pack.

 

IV. Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes

• Choosing colors that are too dark: In the case of gray hair, shades that are too dark create an unnatural effect, can highlight facial wrinkles more, unfavorably, and can make the face look even older.
• Uneven application: A sufficient amount of dye and its even distribution are essential to prevent hair from becoming stained and gray hairs from showing through in the finished hairstyle.
• Ignoring the condition of the hair: Always conduct a thorough condition assessment and apply necessary treatments. In today's allergenic era, we cannot emphasize enough the need for a skin test!

 

V. Conclusion

Perfect gray hair coverage requires not only technical knowledge, but also the art of treating the hair. Choosing the right materials, applying precise coloring techniques and monitoring the condition of the hair are essential for success. The secret to success as a hairdresser lies in applying these factors together.

If you would like to learn more and become a gray hair coverage expert, come to our training courses, where our team is waiting for you!